Dr Halliday Answers Skin Myths for West Sussex

✓ Medically reviewed by Dr Amber Halliday, MRCGP MBBS BSc (Hons)

Every week in consultation, Dr Halliday hears the same handful of skincare myths repeated back — some harmless, some actively working against the results people are trying to get. This page brings together 55 of the most common ones, organised by topic, with a short, clinically accurate correction for each.

This is general information, not a substitute for a consultation about your own skin. If something here raises a question specific to you, our Skin Concerns Hub is a good next step, or you’re welcome to book a full assessment.

SPF & Sun Protection

Read our full SPF guide →

Myth: SPF 50 is twice as strong as SPF 25

Truth: SPF 50 filters slightly more UV than SPF 25, but nowhere near double — the difference is smaller than the numbers suggest.

Myth: You don’t need sunscreen on cloudy days

Truth: Up to 80% of UV still penetrates cloud cover, so skipping SPF on an overcast day still leaves you exposed.

Myth: Dark skin doesn’t need SPF

Truth: Melanin offers some natural protection, but UV still causes damage and pigmentation in darker skin tones.

Myth: Makeup with SPF is enough

Truth: You’d need to apply roughly 7–10 times more product than most people actually wear to get the stated protection.

Myth: You only need SPF on holiday

Truth: Daily UV exposure, not just holiday sun, is the main driver of visible skin ageing over time.

Myth: Higher SPF lasts longer

Truth: SPF number reflects strength of protection, not duration — all sunscreen needs reapplying roughly every two hours.

Myth: SPF stops vitamin D production entirely

Truth: Sunscreen reduces UV exposure, but in real-world use rarely blocks vitamin D synthesis completely.

Myth: You can’t burn in winter

Truth: Burning is driven mainly by UVB, which is weaker in winter, so burn risk is genuinely lower — but UVA, which drives ageing and pigmentation, stays present at fairly constant levels year-round, including through cloud and glass.

Retinoids & Active Ingredients

Read our full retinol guide →

Myth: Retinoids thin the skin

Truth: Used correctly, retinoids thicken the deeper dermis over time by stimulating collagen production.

Myth: Retinoids shouldn’t be used long-term

Truth: Long-term use is generally safe, and works best when introduced gradually and reviewed with a doctor.

Myth: Retinoids exfoliate the skin

Truth: They regulate skin cell turnover rather than exfoliating the surface the way acids do.

Myth: You must peel for retinoids to work

Truth: Visible peeling is a sign of irritation, not a marker of how well the product is working.

Myth: Vitamin C can’t be used daily

Truth: Stable, well-formulated vitamin C products are specifically designed for daily use.

Myth: Niacinamide causes purging

Truth: Niacinamide is barrier-supportive and rarely causes purging or irritation.

Myth: You can’t mix retinoids and vitamin C

Truth: Modern formulations allow the two to be used safely together, whether combined or at different times of day.

Myth: More active ingredients means better results

Truth: Layering too many actives at once tends to cause inflammation and can set your skin back rather than improve it.

Microneedling & Professional Treatments

Explore microneedling treatments →

Myth: Microneedling works best on dehydrated skin

Truth: Well-hydrated skin generally responds better and heals more efficiently after treatment.

Myth: Microneedling is only for wrinkles

Truth: It’s used for texture, scarring, some types of pigmentation, and overall tone — not just lines.

Myth: Microneedling opens the skin to infection

Truth: In a properly run medical clinic, strict sterile technique significantly reduces this risk.

Myth: Home rollers work like medical microneedling

Truth: Home devices don’t reach the therapeutic depth of a medical-grade device, so results aren’t comparable.

Myth: Microneedling results are instant

Truth: Collagen remodelling takes several weeks, so results build gradually rather than appearing immediately.

Myth: Microneedling thins the skin

Truth: It thickens the dermis over a course of treatment by stimulating the skin’s own collagen production.

NeoGen Plasma & Energy Devices

Explore NeoGen Plasma →

Myth: NeoGen is the same as laser

Truth: Plasma energy works differently to laser light and affects the skin across multiple layers.

Myth: NeoGen is painful

Truth: Controlled energy delivery combined with numbing cream makes the treatment comfortable for most people.

Myth: NeoGen only treats texture

Truth: It’s also used for pigmentation, skin laxity, sun damage and fine lines, depending on the settings used.

Myth: NeoGen has no downtime at all

Truth: Downtime depends on the intensity setting used — lower settings have minimal visible downtime, while higher-intensity treatments can involve several days of bronzing or light scabbing, which we’ll always talk you through in advance.

Myth: Plasma energy is unsafe

Truth: NeoGen is a clinically validated device and, at our clinic, always delivered under doctor-led supervision.

Skin Barrier & Hydration

Explore dull & dehydrated skin →

Myth: Oily skin doesn’t need moisturiser

Truth: Oil isn’t the same as hydration — even oily skin needs proper barrier support.

Myth: Tight skin means it’s clean

Truth: Tightness is usually a sign the skin barrier has been disrupted, not a sign of cleanliness.

Myth: Water alone hydrates the skin

Truth: Genuine hydration needs topical humectants and lipids, not just drinking more water.

Myth: Hot water is good for cleansing

Truth: Hot water strips the skin barrier and tends to worsen sensitivity over time.

Myth: You can shrink your pores

Truth: Pore size is largely structural — treatment can reduce their appearance, but can’t physically shrink them.

Myth: Dry skin needs the heaviest cream available

Truth: It needs a balance of humectants, emollients and occlusives, not simply the thickest product on the shelf.

Acne & Breakouts

Explore acne & scarring treatments →

Myth: Acne is caused by dirty skin

Truth: Acne is primarily hormonal, inflammatory and genetic — not a hygiene issue.

Myth: Toothpaste treats spots

Truth: It tends to irritate the skin and can make inflammation worse rather than better.

Myth: Scrubbing clears acne

Truth: Scrubbing increases redness and damages the skin barrier, which usually makes breakouts worse.

Myth: Sun exposure helps acne

Truth: UV exposure worsens post-acne pigmentation and inflammation, even if skin looks temporarily better tanned.

Myth: Chocolate causes acne

Truth: There’s no strong evidence for a direct link — hormonal factors are the main driver.

Myth: Acne only affects teenagers

Truth: Adult acne is extremely common, particularly in women in their 20s, 30s and 40s.

Ageing & Collagen

Explore fine lines & wrinkles →

Myth: Ageing is purely genetic

Truth: A large majority of visible skin ageing is driven by environmental factors, particularly cumulative sun exposure.

Myth: You can reverse ageing with skincare

Truth: Skincare can improve the visible signs of ageing, but it doesn’t reverse the underlying biological process.

Myth: Collagen supplements rebuild your skin

Truth: They may support general skin health, but they don’t directly rebuild dermal collagen the way in-clinic treatment can.

Myth: Sleeping on your side causes wrinkles

Truth: It can contribute over decades, but cumulative UV exposure remains the main driver of facial ageing.

Myth: Anti-ageing skincare should start at 40

Truth: Prevention — largely daily SPF — is most effective when it starts in your 20s or 30s.

Pigmentation & Skin Tone

Explore pigmentation & dark spots →

Myth: Pigmentation fades on its own

Truth: Most pigmentation needs active treatment and consistent SPF use — it rarely fades unaided.

Myth: You can lighten pigmentation quickly

Truth: Safe, controlled fading typically takes weeks to months, not days.

Myth: Pigmentation is only caused by sun exposure

Truth: Hormones, heat, inflammation and UV can all contribute, often in combination.

Myth: Hydroquinone is inherently dangerous

Truth: It has a legitimate, well-established role in treating pigmentation when medically supervised and used correctly — in the UK, that means prescribed by a doctor.

Myth: Melasma can be cured

Truth: Melasma is a chronic condition that can be controlled with the right approach, but isn’t considered curable.

General Skin Myths

Not sure where to start? Browse Skin Concerns →

Myth: Natural skincare is always safer

Truth: “Natural” doesn’t automatically mean clinically tested, stable, or better tolerated.

Myth: Expensive skincare always works better

Truth: Formulation and active ingredients matter far more than price point.

Myth: Men don’t need a skincare routine

Truth: Skin physiology is essentially the same, so the same basic needs apply.

Myth: Drinking collagen tightens your skin

Truth: It may support general skin health, but it isn’t a substitute for in-clinic treatment.

Myth: You can close open pores

Truth: Pores don’t physically open or close — they simply appear larger when enlarged by oil, age or sun damage.

Myth: Skin can ‘detox’

Truth: The liver and kidneys handle detoxification — skin’s job is to protect and regulate, not eliminate toxins.

Got a myth you want fact-checked?

Bring it to a consultation and Dr Halliday will give you a straight, evidence-based answer.

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Further Reading